Lately I've been thinking about that well known saying, "what you don't know can't hurt you". This personal philosophy can be useful when we're talking about the insignificant day to day stuff that we can basically do without, like gossip and traffic. However, this attitude should not be relevant to the products we choose for our most precious commodities, our body and our health.
If you're anything like me, a trip to the cosmetic counter or the cosmetic aisle is just like a trip to the candy store. I can remember sneaking an eye shadow to school when I was fourteen years old because my mom didn't want me wearing any make up until I was fifteen. I did silly things like kiss my mom on the lips in the hopes that some of her lipstick would rub off on me. I know, I know, that's pretty silly. But I loved makeup. Still do. There are just so many pretty colors and you know that each box holds a little bit of bliss unlike any other.
The complex part (and the fun part) is trying out all of the options presented to you. Each palette is an opportunity to bring out a new you or try and match that unbelievable eye-makeup on that sexy woman you saw last week. The smells alone make you giddy with the delight of a walking out with a tiny shimmering shopping bag hiding a treasure within just for you.
Or perhaps you're like my sister. You've learned faithfully what colors look extraordinary on your skin color and bring out your particular shade of eye color. You know just which trustworthy color combination to buy. Either way, you put a lot of effort into deciding what is right for you.
When you pick up that box of bronzer or that tube of lip gloss, at some level you trust that the company that manufactured this product has your best interest in mind. As a consumer, you also know that the cosmetics industry is there to make money.
After all, it is a business. It happens to be growing multi-billion dollar industry. The beauty industry is one of the fastest growing unregulated industries out there. The Food and Drug Administration is a great organization when it works. The FDA works to regulate and monitor ingredients that go into many of the products we purchase. They are here to make sure that the ingredients used are tested and safe to use. The cosmetics industry is not of those industries that the FDA is at this time regulating. What that means for us is that cosmetics companies get to select ingredients for reasons that don't necessarily benefit me and you.
The Poo-Poo List
1. Paraben - The words in front of "paraben" may change but the end result is a highly toxic chemical. (i.e. methyl, propyl, butyl, ethyl, isobutyl and benzyl) It also causes allergic reactions, skin rashes, and may disrupt proper hormone functioning. There are most commonly found in the form of "parabens" such as methyl paraben, propylparaben and butylparaben. These are actually synthetic chemicals being used as preservatives. The chemical form of the parabens found in 18 of 20 tumors tested indicated that they originated from something applied to the skin, the most likely candidates being deodorants, antiperspirants, creams, or body sprays. Parabens are among the most common harmful ingredients and are found in almost every conventional personal care product.
2. Petroleum/Petrolatum/Mineral Oil/Liquid Paraffin - Manufacturers love these because they are so cheap. These are possibly cancer causing and have been banned or restricted for use in cosmetics in other countries. These products, often used as emollients, or skin moisturizers, actually create drying of the skin and promote sun damage. These are typically used as foaming agents to create lather.
The most used ones are sodium lauryl sulfate and propylene glycol or cocamidopropyl betaine, which many claim to be derived from coconut oil, but it is actually produced with petroleum based chemicals to manufacture it.
Note: Petroleum products are also xenoestrogenic , and may contain impurities linked to breast cancer.
3. Propylene Glycol (PEG) - Polyethylene Glycol (PEG): Potentially carcinogenic petroleum ingredient that can alter and reduce the skin's natural moisture factor. This one is used in many personal care products and cosmetics as well as in commercial cleansers and oven cleaners.
4. Fragrances - The sneaky thing about this term is that it can be composed of over 200 other ingredients which can cause a variety of symptoms including headaches, rash, dizziness, skin irritation. This ingredient is so unregulated that cosmetics companies don't even have to list what is in their fragrances. Many fragrance ingredients are chemically-based, neurotoxin, and allergenic. Hundreds of different chemicals may be used in its manufacture. Many fragrance chemicals are also phthalates.
5. Coal Tar/Dyes/FD&C Colors - This is a huge catch all category of artificial colorings. Coal tar is a human carcinogen. Yet dyes made from coal tar can be found in scalp treatments, cosmetics, tooth products, and food. Synthetic colors made from coal tar, especially Blue 1, Green 3, D&C Red 33, FD&C Yellow 5 and FD&C Yellow 6, all of which have shown to be carcinogenic in studies.
6. Imidazolidinyl Urea/Diazolidinyl Urea - These are a primary cause of contact dermatitis. They may degrade to formaldehyde and are very toxic.
7. Formaldehyde - This is a cancer causing agent. It also causes a variety of ailments including skin irritations, respiratory problems, and immune system toxicities. It is a byproduct of some of the ureas and quaternium compounds.
8. Talc - This is an ingredient that clogs pores and causes skin irritation. It has been linked to cancer and respiratory problems. (Has been banned in Europe and is closely related to asbestos). Several studies have established preliminary links between talc and pulmonary issues, lung cancer, skin cancer and ovarian cancer. This is a major concern considering talc's widespread commercial and household use. In 1993, a US National Toxicology Program report found that cosmetic grade talc caused tumors in animals, even though it contained no asbestos-like fibers. Scientists have been aware of the toxicity of talc since the late 1960s, and in 1971 researchers found particles of talc embedded in 75 percent of the ovarian tumors studied. However, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) considers non- asbestiform talc, that is talc which does not contain potentially carcinogenic asbestiform amphibole fibers, to be Generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for use in cosmetics.
9. Nanoparticles - These are tiny particles which may penetrate the skin and damage brain cells. In the cosmetic industry, nanoparticles of zinc and titanium are becoming more popular. According to the San Francisco Chronicle, "Animal studies have shown that some nanoparticles can penetrate cells and tissues, move through the body and brain and cause biochemical damage. But whether cosmetics and sunscreens containing nanomaterials pose health risks remains largely unknown, pending completion of long-range studies recently begun by the FDA and other agencies." Diesel nanoparticles have been found to damage the cardiovascular system in a mouse model.
10. Phthalates (pronounced tha-lates) - Phthalates (DEP - diethylphthalate, DBP - dibutlyphthalate, DMP - dimethylphthalate, and BBP - butyl benzylphthalate): A plasticizer commonly found in hair care products, perfumes, nail polish, and lotions often listed as "fragrance". Studies have shown possible adverse effects in human reproduction and development. Phthalates are controversial because high doses of many phthalates have shown hormonal activity in rodent studies. Studies on rodents involving large amounts of phthalates have shown damage to the liver and testes and cause birth defects.
Research on phthalates in the environment published in 2008 asserted that many baby care products containing phthalates are source of exposure for infants.
The authors "observed that reported use of infant lotion, infant powder, and infant shampoo were associated with increased infant urine concentrations of [phthalate metabolites], and this association is strongest in younger infants. These findings suggest that dermal exposures may contribute significantly to phthalate body burden in this population.
Young infants are more vulnerable to the potential adverse effects of phthalates given their increased dosage per unit body surface area, metabolic capabilities, and developing endocrine and reproductive systems."
Some Extra ingredients to look out for:
1,4 dioxane: There have been various references in the media of late as to the dangers of this chemical. This is a carcinogenic contaminant found in nearly half of personal care products (including baby care products). This chemical is readily inhaled and absorbed through the skin. Some effects of overexposure may include liver and kidney damage and blood disorders.
DEA, TEA & MEA (diethanolamine, triethanolamine, and monethanolamine): Common in shampoos, body washes, and soaps. Often used in cosmetics to adjust the pH. TEA causes various allergic reactions and is toxic if absorbed into the body over a long period of time. Repeated use of DEA-based detergents has resulted in a major increase in the incidence of liver and kidney cancer. These amines have been found to be carcinogenic and are restricted in Europe.
Lead. You may think that this well-known health hazard has been removed from all cosmetics, but certain types of hair dye still contain it. Lead acetate has been rated by Skin Deep as a number 10 toxin.
Mercury. Also called thimerosal, this is the controversial ingredient blamed for children's autism because of its use in vaccines. While even the vaccine industry has removed most thimerosal from most of its products, some cosmetics still contain it, especially some cake-style mascaras. Some homeopathic formulas have been tagged by Skin Deep for having mercury compounds in them, but the minuscule amounts found in these products are likely not going to cause harm.
PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid). This used to be a common ingredient in many products, including sunscreen, until its possible carcinogenic properties were discovered. Yet you can still find it in some lip balms, shampoos, and body washes! PABA has been linked to cancer, developmental damage, reproductive damage, cell level changes, and neurotoxicity.
Stearalkonium Chloride - is a chemical frequently used in hair conditioners and creams it was initially developed by the fabric industry as a fabric softener. It is supposed to make hair shinier and cuts tangles, easing combing. The substance generally considered to be toxic and unsafe for use. However, it continues to be used in even "natural" hair care products, as the stearic acid used to make it can come from natural fats or oils. The substance is believed to damage hair in the long term. Companies continue to use them because simply put, they are cheaper than using proteins and herbals.
Synthetic Colors - You will usually find these labeled as FD&C or D&C. FD&C colors are currently approved for food, drug and cosmetics. D&C colors are approved for drugs and cosmetics only. Many synthetic colors are believed to be cancer causing. FD&C has already been banned in the European Union.
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